Ian S

I hit a pothole quite hard the other day, it screwed up my tracking which I've had re-done, but the airbag light is on while driving.

How expensive is this likely to be?

Do I have any comeback against the local council or whoever?

I've seen lots of gamers taking about running their games at frame rates of between 100-200 FPS, is there any point in this with monitor refresh rates of 50, 60, or 75 Hz

Or is it that windows being rubbish at real time may delay some frames so you want to have spares ready.

Is there an optimum relationship between screen refresh rate and game FPS, and does it vary between DVI and VGA.

Hope this gets you thinking.

I recently bought a 206 1.4I on an 03 plate 40,000 Miles. I sorted out clunking due to the spare wheel carrier, then the front O/S droplink, also an alarming power loss after a cold start due to a clogged air filter. Also a steering chug near full lock due to low fluid level.

Now when accelerating/decelerating using the engine I get a rusty springy creaking noise. There is no noise when braking but it is louder the harder I accelerate or engine brake. I initially suspected clutch pedal springs, but now I think more like a bad engine mount causing excess engine movement.

Anyone any ideas?

Now its generally running OK apart from this, braking straight and 9.4 + miles per litre.

Anyone know if there's any difference in nutrition between fresh fruit juice and juice made from concentrates and are concentrates greener becuase of the lower carbon footprint from shipping, or does the processing required cancel this out?

bought a laptop battery from hong kong supplier, it doesn't work so I need to send it back

I bought an efergy smart meter to monitor my power usage. It reliably reports 300W usage when I turn on 300Wats worth of halogen bulbs (well 310W actually) or 2KW when I turn on my 2KW kettle. When I turned on an old 15W CFL bulb its said 52 Watts, then went up to 69 watts, then back to 52, did this a few times then settled at 52 W. I thought its probably old and goosed so I bought a couple of new 20W CFL's, they both came on at 34W, then up to 52 for a while then back to a steady 34W, better but still well over the advertised 20W Rating. The bulbs are A rated for energy efficiency.

I suppose the hop up on starting will be the normal fluorescent starting current, its the long term higher wattage that worries me.

I did try several of the other CFL's in my house and they all behaved the similarly and drew way more than their rated wattage.